it also occurs naturally in our body and is used as a food additive. it comes from the seeds of african shea or karite trees and used as a magic moisturizer and emollient. what seems to be a true difference, though, is that the salt form is more stable, easier to formulate and cheaper so it pops up more often on the ingredient lists. it is also so gentle and non-irritant that it can actually be used in cleansers to reduce the irritating potential of harsh surfactants, aka cleansing agents. the result is that the mainly oil soluble, emollient fatty alcohol is converted to an emulsifier molecule that keeps oil and water mixed in creams.
as for hair care, it is a non-volatile silicone meaning that it stays on the hair rather than evaporates from it and smoothes the hair like no other thing. even if it can be converted, the palmitate part of the molecule is more than the half of it, so the efficacy will not be good and we have never seen a serum that contains a decent (and proudly disclosed) amount of ap. probably that’s why citric acid is usually not used as an exfoliant but more as a helper ingredient in small amounts to adjust the ph of a formulation. other than having a good safety profile and being quite gentle to the skin it has some other advantages too. fragrance in the us and parfum in the eu is a generic term on the ingredient list that is made up of 30 to 50 chemicals on average (but it can have as much as 200 components!).
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